Azores Sept 2017

Itinerary
Fri, Sept 1, 2017
Ross and I both worked til midnight Monday morning and then came home to rest and then pack. But before that, out stomachs got the best of us. Rossy bear went for a Taco Bell run and we discovered it closed at 1am. Dang! So then hit up Jack in the Box and we went way overboard with the food and grease. It was the not-so-great gift that kept on giving — heartburn and that yucky feeling. We opted to sleep after that until 5am. We both got up and showered and started packing. We caught an XL uber to the airport around 6:30a and made it in time for our flight to Boston. But, there would be trouble at the Alaskan checkin counter with Barbara who tried to charge us $100/checked bag to the Azores. Luckily, she grabbed her supervisor Mark and he was able to sort through the situation without charge. Stellar job Mark!  We got Ross’ surfboard checked and my inflatable Isle SUP and we were golden. We slept for most of the 5 hour flight to Boston.
After arriving in Boston, we proceeded to the international terminal to check in with Azores Airlines. We were super early (and had a three hour layover) so we went to the terminal restaurant and got lobster rolls and clam chowder. Big win!  After we downed dinner, we got in the checkin line which wasn’t moving quickly at all. In fact , Azores Airlines had the slowest checking vs all the other airlines. But once we got our tickets… we were all smiles. Bear started to get this new right eye pain that almost seemed like sinus pressure. He’s starting to perk up after some DayQuil and a nap.
Now we’re still in the Boston terminal waitin for our flight to arrive and then board. We’re already an hour late secondary to late arrival from the prior aircraft. I hope we make our next leg to Horta!
ITINERARY  Print  Email
Departure
Check-in with Alaska Airlines / Confirmation number: RNK3I5
San Diego, CA, United States (SAN) to Ponta Delgada, Portugal (PDL)
1 Stop
Alaska Airlines
Flight 798
Economy
8:20am
 Fri Sep 1, 2017
San Diego, CA, United States (SAN)
5:06pm
 Fri Sep 1, 2017
Boston, MA, United States (BOS)
 Layover – 3h 59m
Airline Confirmation: RNK3I5
Azores Airlines
Flight 250
Economy
9:05pm
 Fri Sep 1, 2017
Boston, MA, United States (BOS)
6:00am
 Sat Sep 2, 2017
Ponta Delgada, Portugal (PDL)
Airline Confirmation: RNK3I5
  Total Trip Time: 14h 40m

Sat, Sept 2
6:00a arrive into PDL
So tired. The flight into PDL was great. Nice dinner on the flight. We fell asleep for most of this leg. Picked up the surfboard and SUP and hauled it to the next checkin. Apparently, you need a surfboard reservation when you checkin a surfboard.  One more leg to go. Did I mention how tired we are? The Azores are 7 hours ahead of our local time.
8:40A PDL SATA Air Acores 570 —> HOR 9:30a
Pick up rental car at airport
We arrive in Horta on Faial Island. Grab our Lil car but all our luggage fit inside… even the surfboard!  We drive to our B&B Quinta da Meia Eira. Such a beautiful lil compound along the water with pool house, fresh fruits, local yogurt and a wonderful host family!  We encountered some of the largest spiders we had ever seen!  Bear hopped into the pool for a quick rinse and I showered off quickly in the pool house. Our room wasn’t quite ready yet, but our host graciously invited us to have breakfast. The local made yogurt was tasty! The local cheeses were hard and semi soft with a nice buttery flavor (I only ate the pasteurized ones.). There was a little fruit that had a thin leaf wrapping around it. Peel back the leaf and it was a bright orange ball of small fruit. It was really sweet and tasty. Bear calls it the Azorean dingleberry. After breakfast, we drive out to Capelinho. This was an old volcanic eruption in the 1956. It was barren now like the moon. It was a busy whaling site. Lighthouse is intact and we could walk around the volcanic area and go down by the water. After this sight, we drove to Praia do Norte (or Fajal as our host called it) and sat along the wall watching some waves along the beautiful rugged coastline. It looked so much like Kauai. We tried to see if the weather would clear to make the trek to Caldeira but it was really cloudy and foggy higher up in elevation. Not a good day to view it.  After that, we were really feeling tired and dehydrated and thought it would be best to head to our b&b to checkin and rest up a bit. I passed out in the car and Bear completed the drive around the island (you could probably get all the way around it in an hour!). We got in and passed out hard for a couple hours. Bear went to grab food for dinner and found this awesome wood fired grill that grilled up fresh local catch and meat. We had the wreckfish (which the locals say is their best fish) and beef. Everything was delicious! The meats were tender and flavorful. The potatoes were phenomenal!  After the meal, we showered and called it a night.  It’s 10p right now and we gotta be up by 6a to drop off the car and get to the ferry.
FAIAL ISLAND
Quinta da Meia Eira (Bed & Breakfast) – Paid in advance 95 Euros
Rua dos Inocentes – Horta , Horta, 9900-323, Portugal
Booking.com Confirmation No. 1003.481.143
Check-in 2 pm
Cannot Cancel
Capelinhos – Cert of Excellence (30 min drive from Horta)
Caldeira – Cert of Excellence (30 min drive from Horta)
Hike around the Caldeira – 3 to 3.5 hours
Miradouro (viewpoint on the way to Caldeira)
The Marina of Horta – Certificate of Excellence
Surf on north side by Capelinhos = Praia do Norte; also spots on west side
Dinner Options – can go to one when return to Horta before Flores:
Aldina – Cert of Excellence, great reviews
Restaurante Pasquinha – Cert of Excellence, great reviews, rad ocean view

Sun, Sept 3
Drop off rental car at Horta harbor
Morning Ferry to Sao Jorge – Horta Harbor at 7:00 a.m.
(Check out of B&B by11:00 a.m.)
We woke up at 5:45a to get packed and ready to drop the car off at Horta harbor. It was raining like crazy in the morning and we were out before sunrise.  It was an interesting maze through downtown Horta. We ended up going the wrong way on a one way street. Then when we went to go fill up the gas tank for our rental car…the gas station was closed. We pulled up to the ferry place and got our tix and a quick coffee and bite. We boarded the boat for the 1.5 hour trip to Velas…. but we had one stop in Pico so the trip was about 2hrs and some change. Once we arrived to Velas, we walked to the rental car company and and got our car. A Lil cafe was within walking distance and we got some eggs and omelet and toast for breakfast. After that, we took a drive to Faja do Armes.  It was a gnarly drive with hairpin turns and steep ascents and descents. But the view was spectacular.
After that we headed up north to Norte Grande to check out the natural swimming pools. Bear took a dip while I watched. It looked refreshing but cold at the same time. He seemed to think the water temp was in the 70s.   After that we drove to Cubres and walked around there for a bit checking out the surf. We stopped by a Lil cafe and got some beer and an ice cream. Then we decided to take the road toward Topo — the easternmost tip of the island. We came across Pequeno Norte  and decided to drive through it on our way to find Faja de Vimes (another surf spot). It was pretty far to drive with a bunch of steep hairpin turns so we went a ways and then turned around to make it back to Cubres on time. This time when we went back thru Norte pequeno, it was full of traffic. There’s was a town bullfight that people were gathering for… their were detours around the city. We navigated back roads to Cubres. One of the quads (Bruno) met us in Cubres to get our stuff and loaded it up. We did the one hour hike to our lodging. It was beautiful and full of multiple ascents and descents. The worst was inhaling the fumes from the quads. Once we reached our lodging, all tempers had melted away as the view of the Lagoa and ocean were spectacular. The waves were firing with a beautiful left in front of the town church. Bear caught some great sets. Apparently that’s been the best it has been in the past month. There were several surfers out there catching waves so I felt better about Bear being in the water (vs being out there by himself). We came in for 8p dinner of soup, salads, and bacalao (traditional Cod fish of the Portuguese people). Dinner was great and filling. We headed back to our room and passed out!
Ferry arrives in Velas, Sao Jorge at 9:20 am
Pick up rental car in Velas
Europcar – Confirmed via Expedia
Sep 3, 2017 9:30AM
Lg.Dr.Joao Pereira,21, Sao Jorge
Itinerary #7288476417092
Confirmation 1065311683
SAO JORGE ISLAND
Caldeira Surfcamp & Guesthouse – Have not paid, $160 Euros ($80/night), cash only
Confirmed per email from Rita on 8/7
Attempted to pay deposit but unable to transfer, Rita confirmed deposit not required
Coordinate access to Guesthouse in advance via quad bike
Lagoa de Faja de Santo Cristo – Cert of Excellence
Lunch/Dinner option:
Restaurante Mare Viva – Cert of Excellence, ocean views

Mon, Sept 4
Sao Jorge
The winds last night were howling!!  It ended up opening the side door of our room! But we slept like babies last night and woke up at 9am to only fall back to sleep until 10:30a. We almost missed breakfast but we were able to snag some cereal and fruit. After breakfast, we went for a 2 mile out and back hike to a waterfall. The scenery was breathtaking! The path took us through rainforest type foliage and the ocean was visible to our left. It was a feeling of zen and serenity. Once we reached the waterfall, it started pouring. You can see why it’s so green and lush here… the amount of rainfall is unprecedented. We hiked back down the trail in the rain and made it to our room to shower off and change before lunch. Lunch was a delicious assortment off things from yesterday evening’s meal. It was still delicious. After lunch at 2p, we let our meals digest a bit and then grabbed a sup and surfboard to go for a paddle and checkout the waves. The waves seemed to be firing to the left of the church from what we could see from our waterfall hike.  We headed out that way to check the surf. It was pretty small so we SUPd the Lagoa de santo cristo. After that we headed back to the other side of the church where Bear went for a surf yesterday and it was small but still rideable. Bear went for a quick sesh and it looked super fun. We saw several other guests take foamies out to catch the tip of the break. It looked fun and could be a good beginner break. After the surf sesh, we came back to the room and showered and read for a little bit and chatted about the day. Dinner at 8p was good: tomato soup, salad, and pasta w butter sauce. Dessert was a fruit pancake. After dinner we headed back to the room to read and disconnect. There’s no internet or tv at this place… which is awesome!!! But we did manage to catch an episode of Straner Things that we downloaded at the Boston airport.

Tues, Sept 5
Woke up this morning around 10a and headed to breakfast of our favorite chocolate puff cereal. After that we took a walk around the church and over to the Lagoa to visualize the surf and it looked like a nice beginner spot!  So we headed back and brought a board out to the same place. This time we placed the surfboards into the Lagoa and paddles through to get to the surf. The waves were perfect. Nice, slow to break, great beginner wave! The first wave I tried was a green wave and I popped up and rode it! What an awesome feeling! I hadn’t been out on the surf since we found out about the mini Thal and that’s been at least a month +.  Bear and I had such a great time and we even caught a party wave! Such a great way to take in all the surroundings and go for a surf! After that we headed back for 2p lunch. It was a potato pancake with a cucumber yogurt dill salad a regular salad and some bread. It was just right! Now just relaxing and waiting too 5ish for the quad to load up our stuff and take us back to the car in Cubres.
The quad ride was quite an adventure! Not sure how the inflatable sup, 2 large backpacks, surfboard bag, and 3 adults fit on one quad. It was the same path we hiked in… had plenty of ascents and descents and was a narrow path. Definitely a bumpy ride but fun! We head to Velas by car on the island to stay for the evening. We check in to our hotel and walk to dinner. The hostess at the restaurant was fantastic. She treated us to her local pea soup and an evening local wine (which smelled strong!).
Sao Jorge
Casa do Antonio (Bed & Breakfast) – Have not paid, $77 Euros, Cancel up to 9/3/17
Tower Room
Rua Infante D. Henrique 21, Velas (Açores), 9800-554, Portugal
Booking number: 2084577099 | PIN code: 2648
Check-in: 3:00 p.m.
Can Cancel w/o charge until September 3, 2017 11:59 PM

Wed, Sept 6
Last day in Sao Jorge
(Check out ofCasa do Antonio by12:00 p.m.)
Drop off rental car in Velasat 8:20aat office.
Sep 6, 2017 9:00AM
Lg.Dr.Joao Pereira,21, Sao Jorge
Morning ferry from Velas to Pico Island: departs 09:25
Ferry arrives at 10:50 in Madalena, Pico Island
Pick up rental car in Madalena
We woke up early around 7:15a and packed and had breakfast around 7:50a. Cereal has hit the jackpot for us on this trip! We head down to return our rental car to Ilha Verde and forgot to refill w gas! So we drive up out of town (roughly a 5 minute drive) and fill up with gas and then bring it back to the rental car company.  We do a quick drop off and then grab our bags and head down to the ferry. It was already so hot! We rest in the shade and wait to board. We run into the family we met at Sao Jorge at Santo Cristo and did our hellos and goodbyes and safe travels. They were looking to tackle Mt Pico. Once on the ferry, we get a spot on the upper deck under some shade and enjoy the 1h ride between islands. We saw dolphins jumping out of the water. Once we dock, we grab our stuff and head to the rental cars where a lady was waiting for us. It was super hot in Pico. We get to our rental car and the lady was doing the slowest checkin imagineable. It took us 40 minutes of baking in the sun and getting the car checked in before we could get the keys and go. The lady was overly thorough and unnecessarily so. Bear and I were super annoyed! I spot an outside (but in the shade) cafe with beer and suggest to Bear that we grab a cold refreshing bevie. He got the Super Bock on tap and I think it was what he needed to unwind a bit after dealing with that car rental lady in the blistering heat.
We take our car and head to our hotel to see if we can checkin early. Luckily, they had our room ready and we dropped our bags off and headed out to grab lunch at a spot the hotel recommended: Aldeia de Fonte. I ordered the octopus and it was outstanding. Bear got the grilled barracuda which was delicious too. The entreee sizes are massive! We shared an appetizer of pork sausage, blood sausage, fava beans, taro, and orange slices. Their bread was terrific too!  We were so stuffed with lunch, we continued our southern journey of the island and drove through Lages to Calheta de Nesquim where there were natural pools to check out. Bear jumped in and went for a swim. I was still so stuffed from lunch I could barely move.
After the watering hole, we headed out to a place where our hotel recommended we check out. It was baia de canas– we found the park and eventually found a place to park (not bc it was full, but bc it was a bit difficult to find where). Once we parked we went down a very narrow and steep trail that was lined with green moss. After 1/4 mile in with very steep ascents and descents, we opted to turn back. Luckily there was a trail you could drive the car down to the beach. Maybe it wasn’t as interesting, but at least we’d both get to the end unscathed. Actually, bear took a tumble in the mossy forest and banged up his left hand pretty well.
After the drive down to the beach, we got back on the main road and decided to check out a popular snorkeling spot complete with regular swimming pool and natural swimming pool close to Ponta da Luzerna. It was pretty windy but we thought it could be a good launch point for our SUP. Kids and families were out enjoying the pool on this hot day.
We decided to check out a surf spot around Baia do poco. It looked pretty rocky and just a really battered shoreline of rocks. It would’ve been tough to surf there in today’s conditions as you’d have to dodge and weave through the rocks in the water.
After that we headed back to our hotel just in time for a 30 minute nap before dinner. Luckily, the hotel had a pretty amazing restaurant called Atmosfera. Bear and I shared the mixed cheese plate (one from Pico, Faial, and Sao Jorge). The one from Faial was a semi soft and was so delicious… it was our fave. But a close second was the one from Sao Jorge as it was pretty funky and spicy. Dinner was bolognese for Bear and octopus pasta for me. I think his dish was better as the sauce was richer and comforting. My dish was great… but it didn’t come close to the octopus I had at lunch. Although we were already full, we had to checkout dessert and got the lemon merengue as our waitress recommended. It was a lovely meal but we are so full! We headed back to our room at the hotel and are settling in for the evening and making a plan for tomorrow.
PICO ISLAND
Alma do Pico – Cert of Excellence – Paid in advance via Paypal $150 Euros
Rua dos Biscoitos 34, Madalena, 9950-333
Phone: +351914231436
Booking number: 1370885683 | PIN code: 4858
Check-in: 2:30 PM – 7:00 PM
Cannot Cancel Booking
Dinner one night at Atmosfera – Cert of Excellence
Dinner option in Sao Roque do Pico:
Casa Ancora, rated No. 1 restaurant on the island (Atmosfera is No. 2)

Thurs, Sept 7
Woke up this morning around 9:30aand just relaxed in bed til about 10am. It’s so nice not having to wake up to an alarm clock! We went to breakfast at our hotel and had eggs and cheeses d ham with bread and a pastry and fresh juices and coffee. It was a great start to the morning. We booked our massages for tomorrow morning and headed out to the supermarket to load up on water.
It was such a clear and warm day on Pico. We decided to hit up the private lava tube near Furna de Frei Matias. We used something like a treasure map to find the area to get down to the lava tube — which was like a cave and had some stalagmites and stalactites with water dripping in the damp cool cave. At first it was a bit scary to get down there bc there was vegetative overgrowth and not much light. That morning I had already gotten stung by a wasp on the leg so I was super cautious and hyper vigilant about bugs. Once we got down to the cave it was nice and cool and open and we could see a small ray of light at the end. We walked through the cave and headed back to the car. Since Mt Pico was on the way, we decided to drive up to a good viewing point on the mountain and took a nice stroll around the base. Thankfully it was a clear day with minimal clouds. We could see for miles and both Faial and Sao Jorge islands were visible. It was pretty breezy up there so we did a short walk and then came back to the car.
Next up was Lagoa do Capitao. We thought this would be a great SUP spot so we drove to the lake and found that it was a pretty small lake that was muddy. It didn’t seem ideal for a SUP.  We opted for another more scenic lake called Lagoa do Caiado and Lagoa Seca. Now these lakes had beautiful scenery all around them. First you could see Mt Pico in all its glory. Secondly, it was so clear you could see Sao Jorge island as well. Lagoa do Cairo was quite a bit higher up in elevation from Seca… so we could look down to Seca and see its crystal clear waters surrounded by beautiful forest treees (they looked like pines to us). The view was spectacular!  Neither of these spots seemed SUPable to us so we opted to head for lunch at Restaurante Ancorandouno in Madalena. We got there just as the kitchen was closing at 3p. They suggested we visit the Tea House just down the street. Starving, we visited the tea house and it was a wonderful surprise of yummy food, tasty wines, exquisite desserts, and a beautiful ocean view. We highly recommend this place! Their Pico cheese plate, fish and chips, and fig cheesecake and chocolate coconut bites were so tasty!! Bear had some white wine and he’s discovering that the white wine in the Azores is quite good.
After a tasty lunch, we decided to check out some surf spots. There’s one close to Cella Bar, so we head there. The waves weren’t quite firing, but the location seemed like a cool spot to brag a bevie. Plus, there’s a natural swimming pool at the area. Next we headed further northeast up the coast to Cais do Mourato to checkout another surf spot. It seemed that one could work on a bigger swell but it was super sketchy with the rocks being so close to the breaking waves. I’d be nervous if Bear went out for a surf there. Lastly, we checked out one more spot closer to the airport but it wasn’t doing much. All of these spots seemed to have potential but it seems a bit nerve wracking with all the rocks close to the breaking waves. We have yet to come across a sandy beach here in Pico.
We headed back to our hotel for a Lil nap to escape the heat. Tonight, we headed back to Madalena for a sunset dinner at Ancoradouno which was delicious. We shared a cheese plate and then ordered the barbecue fish (wreckfish that came on giant skewers with shrimp) and also the fried tuna steaks. The entrees again are massive and can be shared between two people. But, it was great trying both of these specialty dishes. For dessert we got a yummy hocokate cake. As we were settling the bill, we saw the lady from the tea house who served us for lunch. Bear and I both wondered if she made al the delicious desserts at this restaurant as well. Overall great evening!
Pico Mountain – Cert of Excellence
Full hike – 6 to 8 hours
Hike with a guide – Tripix Azores

Fri, Sept 8
Check out of Alma do Pico by10:30 a.m.
We had Breakfast at the hotelaround 10am.
Massagesat 10:30aat the hotel. Sonya out masseuse was wonderful! I went first for an hour and then Bear went next. It was absolutely what we needed. After the massages, we packed up quickly and got gas and were about 20 minutes late to our rental car dropoff. While Bear dealt with the rental car lady, I grabbed our tickets and baggage carrier to unload the car. We made it in the14:00ferry to Horta. It was a 30 minute ride to town. We walked a third of a mile with all our baggage to our hotel. It was perfectly situated in town. California pizzeria was closed by the time we were ready to leave our aptat 15:00so we head to another local spot called the Casa Teahouse. I was craving pizza since it was already in my head and we had been eating so much seafood! We get a veggie pizza, watermelon juice, and a wine and iced coffee. We had back to the hotel for a rest (it’s still hot in Horta with minimal cloud cover). We leave the hotelaround 6:30and take a walk towards the marina and head along the fort and ocean front. It’s a beautiful evening and lovely weather for a stroll. It was neat to see all the murals at the marina from people who have sailed from other countries into Horta. We get to dinner at Restaurante Genuinoat 7:45p. It took an hour before our entrees came. Bear got the grilled tuna steak and I got the tuna meatballs with sweet potato purée. We shared a yummy chocolate cake dessert with strawberry ice cream. After dinner, we made the walk home with an almost full moon lighting the path along the marina.
Other activities in Pico?
Grutas das Torres – Cert of Excellence (Caves/Lava Tube)
Lajes Do Pico – town on south side of island
Bakery! Aromas e Sabores
Bistrot Whale’come – food
Whale Watching:
Drop off rental car in Madalena at 13:00.
Ferry from Madalena to Horta: departs at 14:00
Ferry arrives in Horta at 14:30
Apartamentos Kósmos (at Horta harbor) – Committed, $85 Euro
Avenida 25 de Abril, Horta, 9900-114, Portugal
Check-inFriday, September 8, 2017 (2:00 PM – 6:00 PM)
Check-outSaturday, September 9, 2017 (9:00 AM – 11:00 AM)
Inform them of anticipated arrival time
Dinner options in Harbor area:
Pizzaria California – Cert of Excellence:
Restaurante Genuino – Cert of Excellence

Sat, Sept 9
We woke up at 7:15a and met our Mercedes taxi at 8:00. He drove like a crazy man to the airport where we got checked in and waited at the small gate.
9:55a HOR SATA Air Acores 570 —> FLW 10:40a
After we landed, we got our rental car from Ihla Verde and loaded up the car. We went looking for lunch at a top restaurant, but they were closed for the next couple of days. So we opted for a restaurant called O Moleiro where we got steak and it was really good. After that we checked out a natural pool in Santa Cruz on Flores island. The water was so pristine you could see the different kinds of fish in the water (wrasse, angel fish, minnows, side eaters, parrot fish). Bear took a dip and I stuck my legs in. We got out shortly (as we were still full from lunch) and headed out north to Ponta Delgado. You could see Corvo the other island from this point very well. We decided we were at a great spot to try and SUP. It was a harbor there in Ponta Delgado so it was nicely protected until we ventured out of the harbor. Well, it was pretty rough and windy. We paddled out for about 10 minutes and then decided to reel it back in as we didn’t want to get swept out to sea. It was an exhilarating moment and I’m glad we went for it!
After that, we decided to check out some lagoas in the nature preserve in the middle of the island. Lagoa Sete was gorgeous but we couldn’t find a way down to SUP. We drove around some other dirt trails to look for lagoas but opted to turn back asnit was getting close for us to checkin to our B&B. On our way to FAJA Grande, we saw some stunning waterfalls! We stopped by a small super market and got some things for breakfast and snacks and then proceeded to our B&B. Our hosts checked us in and gave us a tour. It was so nice of them to leave us with a bottle of wine and Azorean bread. We got settled and then headed to one of the closest waterfalls that was walking distance to our place. There were beautiful meadows and then a stone path lined by water mills along the way. It was a brief walk but once we got to our waterfall, there was a nice small lagoon waiting for us to take a dip. Bear helped guide me down amongst the rocks as some of them were jagged and slippery. Then, we took the plunge into the chilly refreshing water! We swam out to the waterfall and enjoyed a couple of minutes of awesomeness before we got out.
Once out, we felt so invigorated and looked back at this wonderful sight. We headed bsck to our house and showered and went into town to grab some euros and get a reservation at Jonah’s restaurant.  We found out thy were closed for a couple of days. In town, they also had some streets blocked off for end of summer festival. We grabbed some euros and headed to the restaurant by the house and along the water.
We ordered a small pizza and it was stellar!! Then we opted to share an entree of their fresh caught fish (wasn’t a wreckfish…it was some other whitefish). It was good and meaty like a steak. We also shared a chocolate mousse dessert that was delicious.  After dinner, we drove the short distance home and we watched some news and played a two hour intense match of chess. Bear pulled out all his moves and won that one.
Overall terrific day on Flores.
Casa do Baixio (2 BR house) – Paid in Advance $260 Euros
Rua Via d’Água, n.30 Lajes das Flores, Faja Grande, 9960-030, Portugal

Sun, Sept 10
Flores
We woke up around 8:30aand had a nice relaxing morning. Coffee, choco crisps, and yummy local bread for breakfast. It was looking overcast, cloudy, and a bit drizzly. We got in the car and headed to lagoas Rasa and Furna. Both were good size and really pretty. It was getting a bit chilly and rain was coming down. It wasn’t really good weather for a SUP. After that we drove through the mountains for a bit and went down to check out Lajes. The rain was coming down nicely. We had just come out of the clouds in the mountains and t was quite a bit chilly up there. As we dipped down into Lajes, it was warmer and more humid at sea level. We looked at the harbor and checked out the start of a trail (Faja de Lopo Vaz) xthat was supposed to be a “medium” 3.4 km hike that was going to take 2 hours. Medium is gently used by me bc at the start of the trail it looked like a super steep descent. We didn’t do the trail, but just took a look at the starting point.
We headed to the next town Lajedo and took a look at the coast and some possible surf. The drive was beautiful. We were up in the mountains and it was a beautiful drive. There were bushes of wild roadside hydrangeas. We’d never seen them in the wild. The Azorean people build stone fences along the countryside to separate out the livestock and land.
We left that town and drove up the road to Fajazinha and stopped at several miradouros which are like viewpoints. There are a lot of beautiful waterfalls and viewpoints. We loved seeing how simple life and living is on this island. Once we got to Fajazinha, our host of the B&B recommended a traditional Azorean dining spot (Por do Sol). We were looking forward to super authentic food that wasn’t necessarily seafood.  Bear got the local sausages and yams and I got the chicken skewers. Both plates were delicious! We finished off lunch with a lovely ice cream dessert.
We headed back to our B&B and took a nap (I was wiped out!). Woke up around 5p and we took our SUP out to the bay of Faja Grande for an evening sesh. It was early dusk… the waterfalls were lit up with that perfect orange dusk lighting… we paddled for about an hour. The water was so pristine and clear. We love our Isle SUP! We headed back to the house for a rinse and then took a walk to dinner down the street for a sunset pizza (the pizzas at Papamundi’s is fantastic).  We headed back home and had a nice relaxing evening. The CNN channel has Hurricane Irma on 24/7.
Here’s a link of basically what we saw in Flores! https://youtu.be/yMTWoxB-DZs

Mon, Sept 11
Last day in Flores
Still had trouble sleeping on my side on the firm mattress. Woke up and had our breakfast of coffee and choco crisps! We did some research this morning for Sao Miguel and found some great places to star on google maps.
3:45p FLW SATA Air Acores —> 5:00p PDL
Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort – Committed but not yet charged, $1,050 Eur
Estrada Regional 1, 1º Morro de Baixo, Ribeira Seca, Ribeira Seca, 9600-219
Check-inMonday, September 11, 2017 (2:00 PM – 10:00 PM)
Check-outThursday, September 14, 2017 (8:00 AM – 12:00 PM)
Booking number1004335369
PIN Code6858
Deluxe 2BR Villa
Cannot Cancel
Reconfirm dinner reservation for Quinta dos Sabores tomorrow: +351 926333114

Tues, Sept 12
Dinner – 20:30 at Quinta dos Sabores in Rabo de Peixe – Cert of Excellence
Rua Caminho Da Selada, n10, Rabo de Peixe, Sao Miguel 9600-161, Portugal
Dinner at Quinta dos Sabores
12th of September at 20:30
Rua Caminho Da Selada, n10, Rabo de Peixe, Sao Miguel 9600-161, Portugal
Must reconfirm 24/48h beforehand: +351 926333114

Wed, Sept 13
Potential lunch or dinner: Tukatula Bar – Cert of Excellence

Thurs, Sept 14
Check out of Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort by Noon
Solar da Glória ao Carmo (B&B) – Cancel until 8/14, $250 Eur
Rua da Glória ao Carmo, 5, Ponta Delgada, 9500-618
Phone: +351296629847
Check-inThursday, September 14, 2017 (2:00 PM – 12:00 AM)
Check-outSaturday, September 16, 2017 (7:00 AM – 12:00 PM)
Can Cancel w/o charge until August 14, 2017 11:59 PM
Dinner at Rotas da Ilha Verde – dinner at 9:00 pm – Cert of Excellence

Fri, Sept 15

Sat, Sept 16
Check out of Solar da Glória ao Carmo by Noon
Return
Check-in with Azores Airlines / Confirmation number: RNK3I5
Ponta Delgada, Portugal (PDL) to San Diego, CA, United States (SAN)
1 Stop
Azores Airlines
Flight 251
Economy
5:00pm
 Sat Sep 16, 2017
Ponta Delgada, Portugal (PDL)
6:50pm
 Sat Sep 16, 2017
Boston, MA, United States (BOS)
 Layover – 12h 16m
Airline Confirmation: RNK3I5
Jetblue Airways
Flight 619
Economy
7:06am
 Sun Sep 17, 2017
Boston, MA, United States (BOS)
10:17am
 Sun Sep 17, 2017
San Diego, CA, United States (SAN)
Airline Confirmation: RNK3I5
  Total Trip Time: 24h 17m
Stay the night at Hilton Boston Logan Airport
One Hotel Drive
Boston, MA 02128

Sun, Sept 17
10:15am SAN arrival

Things to book:
Flight to/from SAN/PDL
Travel insurance
Inter-island flights
Rental car
Hotel/accomodations
Activities
Kris board bag
? SUPs?
?Visas
Ideas:
Itineraries:
Surf:
Airline Checking Surfboards Policies:
Sao Jorge/The Triangle:
Known for hiking
Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo – beautiful
Ferry Schedules of Azores:
*Blue Line (Faial – Pico): multi times/day
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Our Honeymoon: South Africa & Maldives – April 22-May 9, 2017

South Africa

mapSA

 

Fri, April 21, 2017
Drive up to LA 1p at the latest
Emirates EK 218
LAX 10:40p —> 1:30a DXB

 

Duration 15:50

 

Sat, Apr 22

 

In the air

 

Sun, Apr 23

 

DXB 3:50a —> 11:35a CPT
Duration 9:45

 

Thrifty Car Rental
Cape Town CPT
Datsun GO

 

***be careful of speeding tickets on Garden Route***

 

  • Address: Victoria Road, Camps Bay, Cape Town, South Africa
  • GPS Coordinates: 33º58’59.37” S ,  18º21’31.43” E
19:00 Reservation
Dress code: smart casual
Shop 153 / Victoria Wharf / V&A Waterfront / Cape Town

 

This was an epically long flight.  First there was the drive from SAN to LAX at 3pm, which means we didn’t get to Ross’ family’s place til about 6p.  After a quick meet and greet and dinner with his fam, they dropped us off at the international terminal.  We boarded the plane for our 11p departure on Emirates to Dubai.  That was 15 hours! Then, once in Dubai, we had a two hour layover where we grabbed a beer and stretched our legs a bit.  It was impressive to see so many people in the Dubai airport at 2am!  We then boarded our flight to Cape Town on Emirates to complete that 9 hour segment.  So in total, it was 34 hours of travel from when we left our home to get to Cape Town.  Emirates is an incredible airline and is worth every penny.  Their service is incredible!  Once we landed in Cape Town, we picked up our lil Datson from Thrifty car rental and got acquainted with our wheels.  First, it’s opposite to the way we normally drive in the US.  The driver is on the right and the passenger sits on the left.  Additionally, the manual stick shift is in the center console… so instead of doing US shifting with the right hand,….. it’s done with the left hand.  My 🐻 did such a fantastic job getting us from the airport to our hotel safely!  Once we checked in at 12 Apostles, they greeted us with some sparkling wine.  The view from the bar/patio area was fantastic.  You can see both Table Mountain and the ocean!  The weather here is perfect — more like a drier windier version of San Diego.  After a quick bite and bevie out on the terrace, we went for a quick dip in the pool that overlooked the ocean.  Dinner reservations at Belthazar were excellent.  South African game meats paired with terrific wines!  We tried ostrich, kudu, and eland!  Ostrich was surprisingly delicious and more beef-like than poultry.  Terrific evening out in the waterfront district.  We finished it off with an ice cream cone and a turn on the Cape Wheel.  And we highly recommend Uber in Cape Town as it’s more affordable than the taxis.

 

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Mon, Apr 24

 

Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa
Breakfast Included

 

8am hike to Lions Head

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Lunch:
Mon 24 April 2017, at 13:00
Silo Top Floor, The Old Biscuit Mill
373-375 Albert Road Woodstock, Cape Town

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Dinner:
La Colombe, Silvermist Wine Estate
Constantia Main Rd, Constantia, Cape Town, 7848

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We woke up at 7:30 am to meet Sial our hotel guide for the hike up to Lion’s Head.  This was a gorgeous peak that sits across Table Mountain with 360 degree views of Cape Town.  We definitely recommend this hike — but it does involve quite a bit of scrambling.  It’s basically 1.5 miles of straight up climbing.  It took us about 2 hours to complete the hike and that’s with 20 minutes at the top to enjoy breakfast and the view.  After the hike, we had lunch at The Pot Luck Club — which is located in a loft on the top level with an open airy and floor-to-ceiling window viewing area of the ocean and mountains.  It’s a fantastic tapas-style Asian fusion restaurant that I’d easily recommend to any foodie!  After that, we searched high and low for a place to rent SUPs and couldn’t find one anywhere.  It’s no longer the season for people to rent SUPs so all the places are gone from the beach.  There were such perfect conditions at Clifton beach for SUPs!  Since we were slightly let down, we opted to wander around the next beach (Maiden’s Beach) that had an ocean pool.  We stayed for a bit to explore then headed back to the hotel to catch the sunset.  Dinner tonight at La Colombo is currently No. 76 on the 2017 World’s Best Restaurants.

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Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa

 

Hike Table Mountain? India Venster Route – four hours, go if clear weather Hike Table Mtn Tripadvisor
  • Platteklip Gorge 1.5 hours – cable car back down
Cable car option: buy tickets in advance online, go weekday/early, long lines Cable Car Tripadvisor

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12:00 Round House –> The Rumbullion lawn (cancelled ressie as we ran out of time and preferred to explore Table Mountain)
 
*** Or Lion’s Head (3-4 hours) Lion’s Head Hike Tripadvisor
 
Emailed Test Kitchen, No. 22 for resie (closed Sun and Mon)
 
20:00 95 Keerom – Real Italian Quality

 

We woke up at 7am and headed to our hotel’s breakfast which was a massive spread of eggs, meats, made-to-order omelets, oysters, champagne, fruit, cheeses, cereals, yogurts, coffee.  Anything you could imagine for breakfast was on the menu.  Luckily, we needed to burn off breakfast so we headed to Table Mountain (definitely get your passes online for the cable car ahead of time).  There’s a full 360 degree view of Cape Town and surrounding towns.  After 2.5 hours at Table Mountain, we headed down to Cape Point, the southern most tip of South Africa — also where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Indian Ocean.  The day was perfect for viewing the coastline.  We saw ostrich, eland, dassie, black lizards! Tons of animals out!  I’d recommend getting to the Cape Point around 2 or 3p when the tour buses are leaving.  We checked out Buffels Bay beach within the Cape Point park.  The park closes at 5p in April, so we headed down to Boulder Bay to see the penguins.  It’s a gorgeous drive along the coast as it was such a wonderful sight to see these cute penguins at the beach!  We decided to head back home along a very scenic route back to our hotel and catch the sunset.
 
We didn’t make it to Keerom bc I was so tired.  But we got room service and enjoyed the eats in the comforts of our home.  Now that’s a honeymoon!!

 

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Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa
Check-out 11:00 am

 

Raats Family Wines (Jason recommendation)
Emailed for 10:30 am appointment

 

Jordan Restaurant 12:30 lunch — There was a delivery truck that broke down on the only dirt road leading to access to Jordan.  So we opted for lunch at Rust en Verde (wine tasting pairing with yummy steak!)

 

Franschhoek Pass
Franschhoek Wine Tram

 

Emailed Test Kitchen for resie – pending waitlist

 

Franschhoek/Le Quartier Francais/Tasting Room for 19:30 and one night stay in Auberge room
Check-in: 14:00
Auberge room

 

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We headed out to Muizenberg where we heard the surf is good! Well it was.  There was a great beginner sandy beach break for me and some nice chest to shoulder high waves for my bear!  The conditions were just perfect: chilly, rain/thunder/lightning, and they were sailing the black shark flag.  It was the first time we had surfed in a shark warning area.
 
Shark flag warnings:
  • blue flag = clear visibility, no shark sighting.
  • Black flag = water was cloudy/murky/poor visibility but no shark sightings.
  • Red flag = shark sighting recently, but ok to get back into the water after 2 hours.
  • White flag = shark sighting now; sirens will go off; everyone out of the water
 
Off to Stellenbosch — wine country!
 
We were headed to Jordan winery for lunch but a big ol cargo truck was having issues and blocked the road into Jordan.  So, we opted for DeMorgenzon and had a lovely wine tasting there!  We ended up picking up the Reserve chenin blanc as well as their Reserve Syrah.  After that, we felt hungry and opted for a quick bite at Rust En Verde — home of some exquisite reds and food!  Definitely check them out if you love nice medium to full-bodied quality reds.  One thing we’ve noticed is that South Africa has quite tannic reds — but we love that — esp since loving the tannic Barolos in Piedmont, Italy!
 
Checking into our hotel Le Quartier Francais!  This place is gorgeous!  We were upgraded to the House Suite and it was enormous!  It was located right by the pool with beautiful views all around us with the mountains.  The service was incredible.  Everything in the mini bar was complementary – two bottles of wine, 3 craft beers, gin, sherry, whiskey, and brandy.  We even had our own mini pool off the master bedroom.  There was another upstairs loft that had two beds and a bathroom that was decorated for kids.  Everything about this hotel was incredible!
 
Dinner at The Tasting Room was so delicious!  It was incredible.  Basically, we took a journey through South African foods and culture.  Each dish was meticulously executed, beautifully plated, and wonderfully described.  On one of our dishes, we even heard some clicks in the description of our dish.  I’m not sure what language or dialect that it was from, but we very much appreciated it!  Our chef was a lady from the Netherlands and she was incredible!  We enjoyed this restaurant so much we felt it should’ve easily been in the Top 50 restaurants in the world.  After dinner, we went back to the kitchen to meet our chef.  She was gracious and had plans for her future after leaving The Tasting Room (I was actually very sad to here that she would no longer be the chef at Tasting Room and that La Colombe would be overtaking her restaurant).  In reality, Ross and I both felt that she rated higher than La Colombe.  So far in our rankings here in South Africa, we loved The Tasting Room, followed by La Colombe, and very close was Pot Luck Club (only bc it didn’t come with wine pairings and it was definitely a more casual atmosphere).

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Le Quartier Francais
Check-out: 11:00

 

Potential options:
– Franschhoek Wine Tram
– Rust en Vrede (Jason recommendation)
     25 min from 43 on Sandstone
     Tasting room open 9:00 to 17:00
     Winemaker’s lunch, first come first service, 12:00 to 15:00
Perdekop Hike, Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve
– Hermanus
     Hamilton Russell winery – pinot noir (Jason recommendation)
     Tasting Room open Mon-Fri 9 am to 5 pm, Sat 9 am to 1 pm
     Creation wines
– Pringle Bay, Betty’s Bay penguins
Helderberg Nature Reserve

 

43 on Sandstone Guest House
43 Sandstone Drive, Boskloof Estate, Somerset West, 7130, South Africa – Show directions
Phone: +27827831048
Check-in: 2:00 pm
Breakfast included

 

After an incredible breakfast at Le Quartier Francais, we hit the road taking the Franchoek Pass through the mountains towards Gordon’s Bay.  It’s a beautiful drive with plenty of hairpin turns and breathtaking scenery.  Once we got to Gordon’s Bay — we headed to a place just west of GB called Strand and hit up Natural Energy surf shop just in time to catch some waves out here. It was such a fun beach break.  After the surf, we headed to our lodging which was a room at Boskloof Eco Reserve — 43 on Sandstone.  Gorgeous room with a view!  Dinner was at Waterkloof.  The food was beautifully presented and very rich.  The food was paired with only the wines from their winery.  It was a nice dining experience, but we still loved The Tasting Room and La Colombe and Pot Luck Club better.

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43 on Sandstone Guest House
Check-out: 11:00 a.m.

 

Creation Wines – 11:00 a.m., confirmed via email
Tapas and tasting

 

Hermanus/Hamilton Russell?
Stay in Arniston, Arniston Hotel?
Surf rec for Arniston
Arniston to Mossel Bay (2:40 min drive)

 

We headed out from our Guest House and skipped breakfast as we were still full from last night’s dining experience.  On the way now to Creation Wines!

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Mossel Bay
Mossel Bay to Plettenberg Bay (1:50 min drive)

 

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Plettenberg Bay
The Plettenberg Hotel?
Tsitsikamma National Park?
We stayed in Tsala Treetop Lodge which is basically a connection of treehouses overlooking the landscape!

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Plettenberg to Jeffrey’s Bay (1:37 min drive)
JBay

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Jbay
Safari

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Car Rental Drop Off – Thrifty
9:30 am, Port Elizabeth (PLZ)

 

Qatar Airways QR6325
10:30aPLZ —> 12:10P JNB
Duration 1:35

 

Qatar Airways QR1364
2:00P JNB —> 11:30P DOH
Duration 8:20

 

Qatar Airways QR672
2:15A DOH —> 9:00AMMLE
Duration 4:45

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Maldivian sea plane
11am –> 12pm

 

maldives

 

 

 

18:30p EDGE ressie

 

 

 

20:00 Dining destination – at the villa

 

 

Qatar Airways QR675
8:20P MLE —> 11:00P DOH
Duration 4:35

 

8 hour layover in Doha, Qatar

 

 

Qatar Airways QR739
7:30A DOH —> 1:30P LAX
Seats 23A and 23B
Duration 16:00

 


BRAINSTORMING:
Fly Emirates or British Airways to Capetown
To Maldives from Port Elizabeth or Durban

 

 

Garden Route

 

The otter trail
Tsitsikama trail
Whale trail
Mother City Hikers: Mother City Hikers Tripadvisor
Sample Itinerary drive from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth:

 

Recommendations for private driver hire:
Wine tastings around Cape Town:

 

Wine Country:
Stellenbosch (approx 40 min from Cape Town)
Jordan restaurant there, mentioned by Luke Dale-Roberts
Top ZA wines – Jordan, Creation, Fairview
Top 100 – Mullineux, Demorgenzon

 

Cape Town Breweries:
Devil’s Peak, The Taproom

 

Cape Town Restaurants:
Cape Town’s Best by Luke Dale-Roberts: Article by Luke Dale-Roberts Chef at Test Kitchen

 

Top 100:
No. 22 Test Kitchen, Cape Town
Dale-Roberts has two other ventures within the same Old Biscuit Mill complex in Cape Town: Pot Luck club is the Test Kitchen’s more relaxed sibling, serving global-inflected sharing plates, while the newly opened Naturalis, is focused, Ottolenghi-esque deli-style dining.

 

Local/African Food:
Mzoli’s grill/bbq/meats – good Tripadvisor reviews
The Diplomatic Bar & Restaurant – good Tripadvisor reviews
Mama Africa – been there long time
Amazink – food and performance/dance show, good reviews

 

Hermanus – town broken head hotel
Great if whale watching

 

Cape of good hope
Muizenberg warmer surf spot
Not Betty’s Bay — too windy
Wine country: close to hermanus
Valleys: hemelmenaarde (pinots)
Surf spot Victoria bay
Table mountain (in Cape Town) – restie on top then cable car down. Buy tix online first is easier
Tsitsikama Forrest – can stay in Tree Houses
Hotels: the 12 apostles – base of the mountains (this looks awesome babe!)
Cape View Clifton, some great reviews on Tripadvisor
-Constantia (green and amongst vineyards)
 The cellars (on other side of mt), winery
–  buitenverwachting winery and great restaurant (other side of mtn)
– steenberg hotel and super duper restie
– August cycle tour
Horseriding in J Bay:
J Bay surf school:
Kruger Park
Addo Elephant Park
Humans
Knysna
Maldives:
** TripAdvisor how-to-Maldives**
Which island to stay in Maldives?
Kris’ epic stays in no particular order:
Per Aquum Niyama: Central Atoll @ Dhaalu

Best convenient meals that work for me

Everyone seems to be busy these days.  It doesn’t seem to matter whether you’re a student, professional, stay-at-home… everyone is running around in the rat race of life.  When I lived in Boston, I would have a delivery service called PeaPod deliver my groceries typically on my postcall day bc I knew that’s when I’d be home.  But today, delivery services have improved!  I’ll go through each of my favorites:




GOBBLE

For the person or couple or family who likes the idea of cooking and/or cooking together, Gobble makes it super easy to whip together a delicious meal that takes all the menu planning, grocery shopping, portion controlling out of it.  It’s my go-to date night meal.


————————————-

FRESHLY

Freshly is a more Paleo focused meal that offers single serving portions of breakfast, lunch, or dinner that is super quick and convenient!  Some of the best parts about this delivery service: high quality protein, no refined sugars or artificial sweeteners, always gluten free, low-glycemic carbohydrates, and nutrient-rich veggies.  Need I say more?


————————————-

FRESH AND FIT

Fresh and Fit meals are more a local delivery food service that is super convenient and served in single serving containers.  It’s all natural and organic, seasonal, and comes from local, sustainable farms.  It’s more veggie intensive and they taste delicious!


————————————-

DAILY HARVEST

Daily Harvest is a wonderful way to blend up healthy stuff that’s super convenient and perfect for that sweet tooth craving!  Usually I’ll whip one of these up in the morning — either with water or coconut water or almond milk.  The directions are on each cup.  Oftentimes I’ll add my own protein powder, chia seeds, flax seed, etc. to boost my nutrition.  These shakes taste delicious — almost like a decadent milkshake (but one that’s actually healthy and good for you!).  So go ahead and have one for dessert!

———————————-

*** UPDATE March 2017 ***

SUN BASKET

This is now our go-to meal planner for the week! We love the nutritious aspect of this quick throw together meal delivery kit. It’s faster to prep than Blue Apron, but slightly longer to make than Gobble. The sunbasket ingredients are organic and as expected have a longer shelf life in the fridge. The recipes are super delicious and diverse. I prefer a paleo delivery kit and this one delivers!! 

Restaurants tackled on the World’s Top 50 restaurants

World’s Top 50 resties — 2014

It took me about 5 years to build up this list.  The amount of work and attention to detail that these restaurants perform is incredible.  In the same trip, I ate at Geranium and Noma.  At the time, Geranium was #50 and Noma was #1.  The two were almost indistinguishable.  2 fave restaurant in the US: Per Se and Alinea.  Bravo to the chefs and staff.  My culinary journey was nothing short of a blessing.

The 2016 World’s Best Restaurants list and with my updated dining list from 2015-2016:

  • (6) Mirazur
  • (7) Mugaritz
  • (10) Asador Extebarri
  • (12) Quintonil
  • (16) Azurmendi
  • (17) Piazza Duomo
  • (21) Arzak
  • (25) Pujol
  • (31) Nihonryori RyuGin
  • (46) Combal Zero

Day 8: Stockholm, Sweden #stockholm #sweden #knut

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g189852-Activities-Stockholm.html

NYT: 36 hours in Stockholm

UK Telegraph: 36 hours in Stockholm

The Independent UK: 24 hours in Stockholm

The Independent UK: 48 hours in Stockholm

Cosmo UK: 24 hours in Stockholm

24 hours in Stockholm


What I actually did in a 24 hour period:

  • Walked out to City Hall and explored the grounds.
  • Checked out Gramla Stan and toured the streets, Royal Palace, Royal Coin Palace, and church
  • Walked along the main boulevard of Södermalm (Götgaten): stepped into a bakery and grabbed a gingerbread cookie and Julmust (very yummy carbonated soda-type beverage served during Christmas season). Hopped on the T-bana @ Skanstull to Central Station. A 24 hour unlimited T-bana/bus pass will cost 135 sek.
  • Walked to the 7 tram (it’s not at the Central Station at all) — you have to walk a bit close to the Gallerian (above ground).
  • Checked out Djurgården –> Rosendals + Skansen
  • Took the 7 tram to Östermalm and walked to Karlaplan and then caught the T-bana to Central Station.
  • After a much needed rest, I headed out to dinner at Knut.  Started with a beverage of bourbon + rowanberry + thyme.  The bartender said that the rowanberry is typically very sour, so they offset that punch with sugar.  It was tasty.  The ambiance of this restaurant was rustic cozy.  There are about 10 tables with varying number of seats and a bar with 10 seats.  Good music during dinner.  The cocktail menu is original and daring but pricey (135 sek / 7.81 for USD conversion).  The bread and butter basket was just the right pre-dinner snack.  The butter was flavorful; soft bread was warm and soft.  I ordered the moose steak dish and it was more like a meatball.  The flavor was earthy and it was perfectly cooked.  There was a flavorful creamy vanilla-type slightly sweet sauce.  Berries (not sure what type) and a block of potato browned on all sides were served alongside the moose.  I really enjoyed it.  The flavors melded together nicely.  I used the butter with sea salt from the bread basket on the potato cube.  Sublime.  Dessert was a warmed cloudberry (typical fruit of northern Sweden) with vanilla ice cream.  The berry had an interesting flavor: tart, but not quite like a pomegranate.  It looks like an orange blackberry, but doesn’t taste like one.  The vanilla ice cream was rich and deep in true vanilla bean flavor.  However, I’m not sure the two flavors (cloudberry and vanilla bean) worked together for me.  I appreciated the crunchy morsels at the bottom of the ice cream.  Overall nice, flavorful, Swedish dishes served in a cozy and comfy unpretentious atmosphere.

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